Recent content by doxilia

Thanks for the additional photos. It appears it might be an October 1992 model frame (0581092 stands for 130 mm rear spacing, 58 cm frame made on 10/1992). I guess it’s likely that the HS EC’s are also for 37 mm ID but without checking them it’s hard to know for sure. Please let me know what...

Thanks for your reply. Shipping to Canada is much the same as shipping within the US. USPS/Canada Post usually works best cross border as it avoids heavy brokerage fees levied by private companies (UPS being the worst). I’d definitely recommend packing it without the fork mounted. The box...

Ooooh… Nice work!! I’m more than tempted but unfortunately I’m on the East Coast. Please do let me know if you’d consider shipping it via USPS and how much it would cost to ship to Montreal, Canada. I’m in the process of restoring my own and essentially finished. However, the main issue with...

I believe the catalog does in fact specify that the R700 is a “multi-sport 650C” bike that’s spec’s with Shimano 105 and 650C (571 mm rims) wheels. It’s in the component and geometry specs. It was convention back then to use 650C on smaller frames and TT bikes in general. I’d suggest measuring...

By the looks of it, the fork blades are indeed carbon. But in those days all carbon forks had alloy steerers and Cannondale from 1993 to 1996 settled on their MTB headsets for road bikes using 1-1/4” (37 mm internal) steerers. That bike with a little TLC could be brought back to be an excellent...

On closer look, that appears to be a Cane Creek headset you’re running so they probably had a 1-1/4” version at some point in the past. Likewise on the BB, you’re running an external bearing 24 mm (Shimano) spindle BB. Both of those are not original from Cannondale but great that they’re both...

Glad to see you were able to find some! I can sympathize with the steep cost of them though. Not factoring in shipping, etc. The Nitto adapter plus a standard 1-1/8” stem would probably be easier to manage spec wise and allow any drop bar you like to be used. But…, it does brake with the...

Right you are BL87! I can understand stating OD’s for quill to ahead adapters but stating a quill stem is 1-1/8” seems like a bad way to spec diameter when in fact it’s 1”. After all it’s not the outer thread diameter of the steerer that’s of interest as with ahead but the insertion diameter...

eBay seems to have a few of these “original” CT quill stems too. They are considered MTB stems (as expected) and most seem to be 135 mm in length...

If your goal is to keep the bike original in cockpit flavour, here’s a polished “silver” 28.6 (1-1/8”) quill stem that’s probably also correct length wise (120 mm) although I’m not sure what frame size you have...

An ENVE SES aero road stem (and AR bars). I thought the polished Al would look good with a midnight CK headset (would have to be an EC34 w/ reducers) and matte black stem and fork. However, the CK devo HS I found is black so we’ll likely go with that for a starters. Initially I think I’ll try...

Yours must definitely be a 1993 R900 frame as I have a 1994 frame (polished Al finish) and it came with a Sub-1 threadless fork and Tange (Japan) threadless headset. Super solid and heavy headset by the way. The 1-1/4” aluminum steerer is still there along with the gloss black Control-Tech stem...

Incidentally, have you figured out what the spec is on the headset cups and bearings? I’d like to see if a 1-1/8” headset or adapter kit can be found for the frame so a carbon fork can be used. It looks like you’re running a different headset than the original which came with polished bearing...

I think you’re probably right. 1993 versions of the R900 came with a different headset and fork. My frame (the polished R900’s) is actually a 1994 model year though I bought it late summer 1993. My fork is definitely a 1-1/4”. However, I’d like to find a suitable carbon replacement that would...

A word of caution for your son. Tell him to be extremely careful clamping the frame at the middle of the TT or ST. This frame has extremely thin side walls especially at the center and clamping it as depicted can basically total the frame. It looks like you may already have a substantial dent...