Recent content by willmill

Hey all. Rode my 1999 T1000 in yesterday's NYC Century hosted by Transportation Alternatives. It’s an open-road, car-sharing urban century through 4 boroughs with lots of waterfront and lesser known parks in Queens and Brooklyn. My T1000 is a 30-lb tank, but comfortable for this kind of ride. Of...

Hello Italy. If the bike was designed for 26-inch wheels and still has 26-inch wheels, then any V-brake should reach the rim properly on those cantilever brake bosses. If not, Paul Component Engineering makes the Moto Lite V-brake that lets you adjust the pads up and down to solve exactly this...

@ Jon L. Thanks for this list! Something I've never understood about the 1996, 1997 & 1998 touring framesets is: why did the catalog call them the CAAD2 ("double-A" for C'dale advanced aluminum design), but the bike's decal (near the back of the top tube) said CAD2 (single-A)? Also, may I...

I appreciate this history. Who woulda thunkit when we got our CAAD2 & CAAD3 Touring frames that the line (and US prod'n) would be extinct in a decade? I am friends with the former president of Pacific Cycle (the bike division of Dorel Industries) involved in the 2008 acquisition and decisions...

What a beautiful part of the continent. Well, in that case, I'd strongly urge you to "upgrade" to a bigger-cog freewheel. I was reminded of something else: I can't tell you how many times when I was riding the Pacific Coast Highway that it seemed the final mile to the campground was straight...

The Coda 22/32/44 is a great crank and optimal for loaded touring. For the rear freewheel, I found the 28T max cog too small, and for the touring you are describing, I'd replace it with a 13-32T from IRD or get a cheap one from Shimano and plan on replacing more often. But I guess it depends...

Nice find. We had a 1998 C'dale tandem of about the same geometry as yours. It was HUGE eating up a lot of my little 1920s-era garage. Funny to see it look so small next to a modern F150.

We're twins! (Your measurements match mine.) And I agree with letsbike's comments. I faced this dilemma when I bought my T1000 in late 1998. 26 years later, I'm glad I went with the 25". But you could go either way (23" vs. 25"); the answer kinda depends on whether you prefer more...

About the “Dura Ace RD only,” since every Shimano 9-spd cassette has 4.34 mm spacing between cogs, what-da-ya-guess this is leftover from 1997 when Shimano released 9-speed only as Dura Ace and every top-end time trial bike got these shifters? The “Dura Ace only” would have been true until...

Hello again. Update: after 11 months and hundreds of miles on the restored T1000 that stated this thread, I conclude that friction shifting is not for me. So, paying homage to the 1992-1998 T1000, today I installed Shimano indexed bar-end shifters (Dura Ace SL-BS77 9-speed). Just a small update...

I love this philosophy. Like cast iron skillets and leather saddles, performance comes from a little simple maintenance. What wax are ya usin’?

What a restoration! What a head-turner! I appreciate the detailed step-by-step, and I share the question about clearcoating. In the late aughts, someone in the Rivendell Owners Bunch did something similar with an Atlantis frame: polished steel + clearcoat. It looked stunning with Honjo alloy...

Hey Jim, could that be a Y2K R300? Catalogs show the R300 evolving from CAAD2 in 1999 to the yellow CAAD3 in 2000 (see page 35 in the 2000 catalog). Tho' maybe you got it in late 1999. Funny, small world: I also got into road biking when I lived in NH, buying a 1999 C'dale T1000 from Rhino...

Hello "New York" neighbor. Love your Y2K F900 barn find. Just today, I rode my 1999 C'dale T1000 in the rain from Chelsea up across the GWB, and totally agree about the paints of that era. I've have and/or had Rivendell, Velo Orange, and Crust frames that are much younger than the 1999 T1000...

I’m glad you found a solution on eBay — good to know. When my original 1998 plastic housing guides failed I was able to salvage by glueing them back together (and glueing them to the top tube with an epoxy glue). It only bought a few years. I am so thankful the Vintage C’dale store had the good...