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I hope it doesn't turn out to be the first week of February.

Thanks Rod, for all the great stories. How did you happen to choose the Town and Country rather than one of the touring frames?

I've always considered LX the sweet spot between quality and cost.

The picture of the underside looks like hourglass stays to me.

Great story. Thanks for posting.

If it has hourglass seat stays, I'd guess CAAD4. I think 1999 was the first year for them. CAAD3 was virtually the same except for straight stays...

Wondering if you could trim down race car "bump rubbers" and make them work. Not sure who made/makes them but I would try Koni first...

I would have a hard time dismantling that Nishiki for parts. I'd guess that was top of the line as it has Tange Prestige tubing and XT parts.

The shifters are definitely newer than the frame. That style with the rounded tops was introduced for the 1998 model year. Crank and derailleurs could be 1995 and were used through 2008. 1995 was the first year that Campagnolo put the model names on the components but they were small and...

Those parts should work together, assuming it's a Shimano 10 cassette. You could check the alignment of the derailleur hanger.

Spacing on 8, 9, 10 speed cassettes are different between Shimano and Campagnolo, so I wouldn't expect shifting to be perfect. What model Shimano shifters and what era 105 derailleur did you try?

The ST700 has the same rack mounts as the other touring models. For more braking power you could add a drum brake. Sturmey Archer even makes one that also has a dynamo...

Paint looks good, quite an improvement over what you started with. I think I'd go with brown also.

I have a 1988 ST700. Bone stock and 23" as I recall.

That T2000 looks like a great deal. I have a 1988 ST700 I could sell. It has caliper brakes and a cheaper build than the ST1000. I believe it's a 23" frame.

Looking good. Is there a bend in the down tube? I always thought the down tube on my 1987 SR600 had a slight bend, presumably from the welding/heat treating. Can't remember if I ever verified it with a straight edge.

From the early days, 1974 catalog cover.

Phil Wood makes a number of different spindle lengths. The cups require a special tool and it's best to have two of them. A good local bike shop may have them. Once installed you shouldn't have to touch it for a very long time.

I think these bearings are what you need but I would check with the seller...

UL is the position for Ultimate (narrow spaced) freewheels. The RE is for regular (wide spaced) freewheels. The shifter should click in either of those for indexed shifting. The center position is for friction shifting.