CAD R4000

Snapy

Member
Hello from Switzerland,
please can you help me?
I tried to do a good job before bother you.
But I don't get to identify my bike.
The codes on the bottom bracket shell are:
FC 8566 04483
3BOW53
Trying to translate it: 1994 March, frame sequence number
On the next line frame code?

In addition to that on the chainstay there is another code: BI-0302

Looking at catalogs it could be a 1998 model or later. No way for me to make a final identification.
Furthermore trying to find the special shape of the rear dropouts in catalog images and the web, there seems to be no matches.

The bike has a complete Dura Ace group 7402 with brake/shift levers

Attached hereby you find two pictures of the bike after cleaning it.

So I'm take my chance and ask the experts between you.

Many thanks and greetings from Souther Switzerland
 

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JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
Regardless of what year it may be, it's an amazing looking bike with some top notch parts on it.

To me, the frame and rear dropout points to a 2.8 or 3.0 series frame, as does the shape of the fork, downtube cable bosses, etc. I am sure the much more road bike savvy members here will be able to give you more detail. It could have been repainted at some point. Again, it is a VERY nice looking bike that looks like it would be a super fast ride.
 

letsbike

Well-Known Member
I personally think that you have a 1994 model represented by the letter F. That would make it a 2.8 framed bicycle, which alludes to the frames weight. The 2.8 was produced from 1992 to 1996, it replaced the 3.0 frame and was replaced itself by the CAAD3 frame which debuted in 1997. The CAAD3 frame didn't have that cantilever rear dropout design such as your bicycle has.
Why you can't find a match in our website catalogs might be because Cannondale Europe had it's own way of doing things which often meant a different parts stream. As JohnnyD said, a lot can happen to a bike in thirty one years. Paint and decals could be newer also. If you can find a European catalog from 1994 I'd start there. That Dura Ace group was produced from 1988 through 1996, which is right for that vintage.

I agree that you have a great looking machine.
 

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letsbike

Well-Known Member
I'm curious to if any of the components on the R2000 of 1994 match your bike.
 

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Snapy

Member
Hello,

thanks a lot to JohnnyD and letsbike.

The bike was preowned only one time. I will ask but I'm pretty sure it's the original painting and decals. I left on the frame the 2005 insurance sticker, so after 2005 it is impossible it was repainted and it wasn't rode anymore after that year.
On the picture you can't appreciate the glimmer of the metallic paint. Incredibly beautiful in direct sunlight.

Ahead stem is Control Tech, Handlebar Profile made in USA. Headset Diacompe / Tange aluminium. Seatpost no idea. The saddle isn't the original one as the owner told me.

Maybe today I will try it for a short ride. Everything but the shifters work fine like new condition.

Have a nice day
 

letsbike

Well-Known Member
I agree that you probably have a well taken care of original bike, it just has some European magic added.
 
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JohnnyD

Well-Known Member
Hello,

thanks a lot to JohnnyD and letsbike.

The bike was preowned only one time. I will ask but I'm pretty sure it's the original painting and decals. I left on the frame the 2005 insurance sticker, so after 2005 it is impossible it was repainted and it wasn't rode anymore after that year.
On the picture you can't appreciate the glimmer of the metallic paint. Incredibly beautiful in direct sunlight.

Ahead stem is Control Tech, Handlebar Profile made in USA. Headset Diacompe / Tange aluminium. Seatpost no idea. The saddle isn't the original one as the owner told me.

Maybe today I will try it for a short ride. Everything but the shifters work fine like new condition.

Have a nice day
I can imagine the paint does look even better in person. Too bad that we don't have digital copies of the European catalogs, I even checked the internet archive to see if I could find one, no such luck as it only goes back to 1996 for Cannondale.com. Oh well, at least we can still get to enjoy seeing the bike, while you get the joy of riding it. The shifters likely need a good cleaning/lube and possibly some new cables and everything will work like a charm.
 

doxilia

Active Member
Agreed with JohnnyD re the brifters. Mine (600) stopped working after 25 years and a little penetrating light lubricant (Jigaloo) got things loose and working again. Note that if you can’t get the brifters working again, you’ll be in a bit of a tight spot as brifters with 8 STI shifts in the rear are not abundant today. I think Sora may be 8 speed. But I’d strongly recommend getting these brifters working again. Remove them from the bike and toss the cables and housing. Bring the brifters back to life and get some good housing and cables and re-cable the bike.

It is indeed a March 1994 2.8 (pound) frame and Sub-One (pound) aluminum fork. Same identical frame and production month and year as my R900. Different paint and components. Your frame alone may weigh less than 1200g. Mine (60 cm) weighs 1275g.

Mine also came with the same silver Al headset (Dia-Compe/Tange), Al spacers (heavy), black Control Tech (120 mm) stem and Profile (420 mm) bar. Also the same fork. Difference is yours is a 53 cm frame vs my 60 cm (last two numbers in 3BOW53).

Stateside there was no R4000 as the catalog goes up to an R2000. But I’m not really sure what would turn it into a R4000 other than the spinergy wheels which may actually be factory original. If so, this would be a Team issue and spec bike in the era just prior to when Team Saeco & Mario Cipollini were riding Cannons. But other than the wheels & paint, this is an R2000.

Mine also has the chainstay codes but I have no idea what they stand for. I suspect they just identify the stays at factory prior to being welded to the main triangle. The dropouts are in turn welded to the chain stays I suspect prior to being welded to the main triangle. And the codes probably identify the dropouts and rear spacing (130 mm) as there were other designs (triathlon and TT as well as touring I think) using these stays/dropouts. The seat stays are simply welded to the rear of the seat tube at the top and to the chain stays ahead of the dropouts making these Cannons unique in stay/dropout design.

Lastly, yes, the seatpost is original (same as mine) but the replacement seat looks like a Turbo or clone. The original likely had a Selle Italia Flite per the R2000 catalog.

FWIW, that seatpost (27.2 mm) weighs a ton even as a stubby that it is (short). The stem and spacers do too while the bar is not too terrible. Naturally, were you to replace all those parts with carbon you’d save several hundred grams.

I ended up disassembling my R900 entirely last year and rebuilt it with all carbon parts including a fork allowing for 32C tires to be used. The main impetus was actually the fork as it’s too stiff IMO up front even at my 200 lbs (~90 kg) weight. The bike rides much more comfortably now though it hasn’t lost its snappy stiff bottom and rear. I lost just about 2 kg from the bike with the original spec at 9.5 kg and it’s now 7.5 kg - both with pedals, cages and I think even computer mount and bottles. The bike is now running SRAM Force AXS front and rear on a 10-33 cassette and 48-35 chainset. While I have Force AXS mechanical brifters available (on another bike). I opted to use SRAM carbon brake levers only and run Blips to shift.

It climbs like a dream…, and is half a kilo lighter than a carbon Pinarello I have using the same 50 mm deep carbon wheels.
 
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Snapy

Member
Hello Doxilia,
many thanks for your reply.
I rode it now for two times. In comparison to my Giant TCR SL in carbon fibre it seems much more comfortable. I definitely confirm the heavy parts as you said. The Spinergy wheels are pretty heavy too.
To make the brake/shifter levers working again I used the Rivolta multipurpose oil which I sprayed in. After this and the sommer heat of the southern part of Switzerland (36°C) they work fine. I can really appreciate the precise mechanic during shifting. It's not so quick as a the last mechanic Dura ace but impressive precise.
Great bike!
 
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