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That is correct, at least in certain years. But 63 cm was a standard size for a long time and sold as complete bikes. In 1999, 53, 55, 57, and 59 cm road frames were only available as framesets according to the catalog. Except in Europe where they were probably available in multiple finishes...

As far as the RD, chain length issue or B screw adjustment could fix the contact between the jockey wheel and the cassette cogs.

Such an odd mix of components that don't fit any bike I remember. But they are all nice parts, especially the DA crank and the Mavic hubs. Paint does look like an 89 SR2000 and the DA crank is right for it. The Huret derailleur is really odd for this bike.

Pretty sure of the size now, as he sent a photo of the BB shell. The 63 shown is where the size normally appears, I believe the 66 above it is a continuation of a longer number.

$975 shipped to me. It's nice but that's about what I'd expect to pay for a nice complete CAAD5 with mid to high end components.

It looks like a 63 cm to me. People make mistakes measuring all the time. Easiest tube to measure accurately is the head tube. Lengths were not published in the CAAD 5 era but I measured a 60 cm CAAD5 at 19 cm, and a 63 cm CAAD7 at 22 cm. He specifies a head tube length of 22.7 cm. I'd...

Great group of folks at the Paceline forum. Thought others might be interested in their comments. Interesting range of favorites, some of which I have and some that I don't. https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=252494

I recall a post by one of the best custom bike builders in the USA mentioning that decals at the place where he used to work were sometimes applied backwords (on the opposite side of the tube, reading the wrong way) due to what the staff was smoking.

I was thinking about keeping the build current with the year of the frame. SRAM would be an option if the frame was newer. I"m not sure what year SRAM introduced its 10 speed road groups, but I'm guessing it was several years after 2002. I didn't check the wikipedia link, which may have the...

Buying a complete bike and swapping the components is a good option. I would go with Campagnolo in that era as the shifters are generally more reliable, as well as rebuildable. Harder to find than Shimano but 10 speed Veloce/Daytona/Centaur groups show up in the $300-400 price range. But if...

Been so long since I worked on a Ford I've forgotten what they looked like.

This is the closest I see to what you are describing for tape...

I like to set FD limit screws with the FD cable disconnected I shift between rings with my left hand while turning the crank with my right. Set the inner limit so that it won't shift to the small cog, then back it out just until it shifts. Then check to see if the chain rubs in the small...

There's a CAAD 3 R600 on ebay for $300 but the seller isn't offering to ship it...

Doubt a gunky cable would have much effect when shifting to a larger ring unless it's so gunky you can't move if fast enough. Cable friction usually results in problems going the other way, when the spring needs to move the cable. I see what you mean about the ring. Guessing it's steel...

Early on, MTB rings tended to be in the 28/38/48 or 26/36/46 range with a 30 or 32 tooth large cog on the cassette/freewheel. After SunTour introduced their Microdrive range the whole industry moved to smaller chainrings and in general - smaller cassettes and freewheels at least for the small...

I might have extra 34T rings, more common than 36T Have gobs of 46, 48, and 50T, some even Cannondale branded.

Here's my M800 on a ride a couple of days ago. I was riding to my shop in town after leaving a tractor at one of the farms, then headed home.

Lots of wind and solar power installations being constructed in my area. There's quite a bit of opposition to the wind turbines. I'll try to get a shot with a sign or a wind farm with a Cannondale next time.

110 bolt circle diameter then?