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I haven't checked all years of the catalogs, but take a look at the 2004 IFG Headshok, page 19 in the catalog. It appears to have the same dropouts, used 26" wheels, and had an ISIS bottom bracket mounted in an eccentric to tighten the fixed gear chain. I'm wondering if the shell might have...

Photos aren't very clear but I've never seen those down tube graphics before. Looks a lot like my 2000 model XR800 which is Smoke Silver with quad wrap Cannondale logos on the down tube. Earlier XR and XS800s were either orange or red. 2001 models were black with yellow decals. It seems that...

In general, longer won't matter. You can add spacers or shorten the steerer tube. You won't be able to make something shorter work.

I stand corrected. My 1992 R1000 is 8 speed, so obviously 130 spaced. I was guessing that even the 7 speed 3.0 bikes that year would have had the same spacing, as 8 speed had existed since 1990 and was clearly the coming standard. I'm having trouble thinking of a reason to stick with 126 even...

I don't recognize the model offhand, but from what I can see of the frame details I don't see anything that looks out of line for a Cannondale. Close up pics of frame details, component list, serial number and bar code sticker would all be helpful.

All of my Cannondale MTBs have had standard British threaded 68 mm BB shells. If your frame is BB30, that might help narrow down the possibilities.

Pretty sure that 2010 was the last year for USA made frames. Since there is no model decal, I'd guess that it was sold as a frameset or warranty frame. It looks like it would be a 26" wheel frame to me. Doesn't look like a 29" wheel would clear, but perhaps a 27.5" would. The catalogs from...

It's been a couple of weeks since the poster checked in here. You might want to send him a message.

Yes, pull your old fork and measure the steerer length. I'm not sure how many threadless 1" suspension forks were made, but I'd guess they exist. You would need to replace the headset if you buy a threadless fork. Remember to add enough to the threaded steerer length to provide for the stem...

I find that the build has more influence on total bike weight than the frame weight, but 1.2 kg is a good start.

I have always thought that the ride quality of these frames tended to be overstated in terms of roughness. I think a lot of that stems from people coming to them from pretty soft steel frames. My first two road bikes were a 1987 R800 and a Reynolds 531 Bob Jackson. The Jackson had a nice ride...

Bike doesn't look to need much work. I wouldn't hire someone to clean it up but would be sure to make it look nice and be rideable when listed for sale.

I will have to find my (1990?) handlebar bag and see what's involved. Perhaps more to the point, post some pictures of what you have and the bar that you want to attach it to.

I would build it as close to the catalog spec as you can manage. I bought an M900 new in 1995 and I don't recall that it had any components that differed from the catalog spec.

Thanks for the link. Not sure if the OP found an arm yet.