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Agree on the fork. The 27.5" sounds like a better replacement. The 9 speed Microshift sounds like a good option and is pretty reasonably priced.

Shimano 6/7/8 works so well - it's too bad that they had to move on. I particularly like thumbshifters. One of the reasons I bought my 1989 SM800 instead of the newer bikes on the shop floor was that it had SunTour thumbshifters and most of the newer models had Rapidfire.

That's a shame. Hope that you will be compensated. It will depend on the years of both bikes. In a given year the frames were often exactly the same. Forks were sometimes different between models with the same frame. Some years there were two models of road frames, as in the era when they...

Seems like everything that I have checked recently at Universal has been out of stock, so I'm kind of surprised that you were able to source what you needed. What is the range of the 9 speed cassettes?

Hi Julien, I'm no help. You might try sending MikeA a message. See this thread. http://community.vintagecannondale.com/threads/need-seal-kit-for-fatty-50-with-5-8%E2%80%9C-piston.733/

Looks like it has a couple of seals but I have no experience with those levers. You might post the question over at the Paceline forum. I saw someone post a free set of those there a month or so ago.

So did you go with Microshift? Interested to hear how it works.

There are a lot of these bikes out there and they are often under appreciated. Great to see one with fresh paint and a fresh build.

Looks like a 56 cm 2002 R700 Si from what I can see.

I think that's a 1987 SR1000 with a 63 cm frame. It would have had SunTour Superbe Pro components originally. It could be an early example of the 1988 SR500 which was 6 speed Shimano 105, but it has the 1987 top tube decal style. The 1988 frame had a Shimano 105 decal on the right chain stay...

There was no road bike with a 900 model number in 1987, but there was an SM900 mountain bike. Post some pictures and list the components and perhaps we can figure out what you have. Serial number is usually on the underside of the chain stay, but is sometimes on the underside of the seat stay...

In that case I would probably just get the housings centered in the opening and shoot the gaps full of black silicone. You should be able to trim the excess up with a razor blade after it cures.

Looks great. 3.0 series frame? What fork did you use?

I haven't looked at the bike. Are those hydraulic brake lines, cables, or one of each?

Is that just a guide, or is it a casing stop? Perhaps you could make a "casting" out of JB Weld and hand file it to fit the opening.

This one with very few miles only brought $400 + $170 shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/133812763904?hash=item1f27dcbd00%3Ag%3AJUkAAOSwIUxg57t5&nma=true&si=lkfu85Hrm32w21HNK5ziCgPSYKQ%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 On the other hand, a bare frame (no fork) sold...

There have been frames with no forks sell in the $300-400 range. Looks to me like you could get quite a bit more than $600 for it parted out.

All 1 1/8"? I might be interested in the Manitou if it's long enough.

A bit disconcerting that you can't get a part for a bike that's only 5 years old. Any chance of fabricating one? Post a picture of it. I'm not familiar with the carbon frames so am no help. My only suggestion is to keep checking with other dealers. The old Cannondale used to supply dealers...

Wish that was longer. I have a white CAAD7 frame here that's missing the fork.