Search results

I never measured the stay diameter of an early Cannondale but my guess is that it's at least 20 mm so that clamp would be way too small. You could probably drill some holes in that stop and rivet it to the frame, but I wouldn't want to add more holes to the stays, especially if they were near...

Certainly something to consider. There are lots of options out there for vintage frames - all materials and brands. Don't know what your priorities are.

Kroil has a reputation as being the best penetrating oil but it's expensive and you usually can't find it locally. PB Blaster has a pretty good reputation and is easy to find. You can sometimes pick up framesets for less than the fork is worth so there is value there. These frames could be...

I was thinking that the 1987 frame I looked at had the two rivet holes (nearly) parallel with the rear wheel axle - in line at 90 degrees to the centerline of the stay. Those look to be staggered - kind of on a diagonal to the centerline of the stay. I have a couple of 1988 frames and some...

Maybe PM Improve Part. Was hoping he would get the parts in production because there aren't many options out there.

No special tools required, just a proper sized drill bit to drill out the rivets on the chainstay stop (start small). Adjustable wrench will remove the down tube bosses. Just be careful to loosen the correct side. The fixed side boss is diecast and pretty delicate. The one in my picture has...

All have the same decals and paint? Certainly could have been a limited or end of the year release that doesn't show in the catalogs but the 2.8 designation doesn't compute - especially since when the 2.8 frames did appear in 1995 they didn't have cantilever dropouts. I have a 1995 M900 that I...

The chain stay housing stop is made from a piece of steel about 1/16" thick. It is attached to the stay with two pop rivets. If you are handy you could probably fabricate a replica. I can get you a picture of the original if needed. Ask around your local bike shops about shops that were...

Looks like someone has run full length housing all the way to the rear derailleur but I can't imagine that it doesn't affect shifting performance. SunTour made some clamp on front derailleurs with a cable housing stop but I doubt that they would shift Shimano 11 accurately.

The gold portion of the down tube boss rotates independently of the concave boss, so that allows the assembly to tighten up without damage to the tube. You put the fixed boss and threaded rod through one side of the tube, add the boss for the other side, and tighten the gold "nut" to bring...

I would recommend that you find the Cannondale parts from a trashed donor frame. Keep an eye on local craigslist and contact your local bike co-op for leads. The linked front derailleur mount might work but you would have to assume the guinea pig role to find out. I can't see the down tube...

You have to go back to 1994 to find a threaded fork on anything above an M400, and I think the 1995 low end bikes had smaller diameter steerers than the bike in the picture and wouldn't have had cantilever dropouts. There were no 2.8 MTB frames until 1995, and they didn't have the cantilever...

What year LeMond? Most years 61 cm (nominal size) was the largest. I have a 1999 61 cm Zurich here with an aftermarket carbon fork. It has a 60.5 cm top tube and a 195 mm head tube, so it's a pretty big frame. When both models were steel, the Zurich was a couple of places above the Alpe...

Welcome. That's a great find, especially to find a 63 cm frame. I'd guess it's the only one out there. I agree about the Mavic parts, they are worth around what you paid for the bike, perhaps more. I don't recall seeing white hoods on any early Shimano group except 1981-1984 Dura Ace AX...

I didn't know XTR housing existed. Is it labeled XTR?

Measure the ID of the head tube. If it takes a 1 1/8" headset it will be just under 34 mm. If it takes 1 1/4" HS it will be just under 37 mm.

Nice. Can't be many of those left that are NOS.

Pretty sure any conventional external cup threadless headset will work. Believe the '97 fork had a 1 1/8" steer tube. Assume that you have the fork and can verify.

I was mistaken about the 1989 frames. I was thinking they had the original style dropouts. 1989 was the first year for the cantilever dropouts (I was thinking 1990), so would look noticeably different from your 1986.

Paint looks a bit dull in the pictures. Perhaps you could touch up the scuffs and give the whole frame a coat of clear.