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Very interesting bike. I'd forgotten that Cannondale made a fork like that. Good luck with the sale.

What is the two letter code on the drive side of the cable guide? Looks like IF in the photo, which would make it a June 1997 frame build. Decal style points to a 1999 frame. 1999 was the year that the CAAD designation moved to the seat stays. The Coda hubs first appeared on 2000 models...

There is an aftermarket version available. It requires a bit of file work to match the radius of the big down tube on a Cannondale. Very inexpensive though. I'm too lazy right now to look up the link but it's here in a couple of other threads on the DT shifter subject.

I'm surprised they weigh that much. I'm going to have to weigh a couple of the older MTB frames I have here to see how they compare.

I would just clean that up the best you can and coat the cross bolt with grease. I doubt it will ever give a problem. Guessing you won't be dipping the bike in the ocean when it's done.

That is nice. I didn't remember them coming with Magura brakes. Looks to be a 1998 model but the decal color looks off.

I do have a pair of Edge arms that I bought at the Chicago swap meet a few years back, $25 shipped to you. You might see what's available at the local bike co-op. 6/7/8 speed road cranks are pretty much interchangeable as long as you get the right bottom bracket. I don't know if there's a...

Sheldon Brown says 107-113, depending on frame. Guessing 110 would be right. Is the crank on the bike now? Can you pull the arms and measure the old one? https://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

Thanks for the reply. If you have time, please post a photo of the clearance at the chainstay.

The clamp FD was a better setup for several reasons. It never registered with me that the ST frames used clamps, even though I've owned several. What crank arms are you working with? Guessing that I have something here that would replace them with much less effort than drilling out pedal...

Year of bike and brand/model of crank will be helpful. Guessing that you will be needing a spindle length in the 118-123 mm range. Assuming square taper.

Looking good. It sure has been challenging to have everything threaded fighting you. Be sure you are turning the pedals the right way, right hand threads on drive side, left on non drive. Maybe a bit of propane torch heat right on the end of the arm will help. Have a helper heat while you...

Most likely it's a 1998 or 1999. You can look for a two letter date code on the bottom bracket shell. See the serial numbers section. 66 cm frames were only sold as framesets, so no model numbers on them. The Saeco decals would have only been on the top of the line R4000 in 1998.

I think $800 may be towards the high end but nice framesets have sold in the $375 range, so it's hard to imagine putting one together for a lot less. If the bike were a little closer to me and a size or two larger, I'd be taking a hard look at it myself.

The nice thing about the stand is that you can easily rotate the frame to get good light on both the top and bottom sides of the tubes and put all surfaces in a position that's easy to reach. It helps me a lot to be in a comfortable position when spraying, rather than having to squat and...

Looks to be all original, even the tires, and in very nice shape. Recent ebay sales have been running $500 and up for complete F bikes. A slightly newer disc brake F700 recently sold for $795. I'd say that with patience you could land one for less than $850, but you may not find one that nice...

You might consider flying to Chicago, riding the bike to the east coast and flying home from there. I have no idea on what the airlines charge to carry a bike on an international flight, but it might end up being less expensive than shipping the bike.

Sounds like a good plan. I would recommend a stand for painting. Put a seatpost in the frame and clamp the post in the stand. The stand will allow you to quickly rotate the frame 360 degrees. That will help a lot as it's hard to get an even coat on the multiple round tubes of a bike frame...

I can't tell where those spots are. Handlebar slap on the top tube would be the most common place for a dent. By the way, if you need a repair stand the ones Aldi sells work pretty well. As I recall they were only $25-30. Not sure if they still have them.

I would check with Craig at Mendon Cyclesmith.