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In general, longer won't matter. You can add spacers or shorten the steerer tube. You won't be able to make something shorter work.

I stand corrected. My 1992 R1000 is 8 speed, so obviously 130 spaced. I was guessing that even the 7 speed 3.0 bikes that year would have had the same spacing, as 8 speed had existed since 1990 and was clearly the coming standard. I'm having trouble thinking of a reason to stick with 126 even...

I don't recognize the model offhand, but from what I can see of the frame details I don't see anything that looks out of line for a Cannondale. Close up pics of frame details, component list, serial number and bar code sticker would all be helpful.

All of my Cannondale MTBs have had standard British threaded 68 mm BB shells. If your frame is BB30, that might help narrow down the possibilities.

Pretty sure that 2010 was the last year for USA made frames. Since there is no model decal, I'd guess that it was sold as a frameset or warranty frame. It looks like it would be a 26" wheel frame to me. Doesn't look like a 29" wheel would clear, but perhaps a 27.5" would. The catalogs from...

It's been a couple of weeks since the poster checked in here. You might want to send him a message.

Yes, pull your old fork and measure the steerer length. I'm not sure how many threadless 1" suspension forks were made, but I'd guess they exist. You would need to replace the headset if you buy a threadless fork. Remember to add enough to the threaded steerer length to provide for the stem...

I find that the build has more influence on total bike weight than the frame weight, but 1.2 kg is a good start.

I have always thought that the ride quality of these frames tended to be overstated in terms of roughness. I think a lot of that stems from people coming to them from pretty soft steel frames. My first two road bikes were a 1987 R800 and a Reynolds 531 Bob Jackson. The Jackson had a nice ride...

Bike doesn't look to need much work. I wouldn't hire someone to clean it up but would be sure to make it look nice and be rideable when listed for sale.

I will have to find my (1990?) handlebar bag and see what's involved. Perhaps more to the point, post some pictures of what you have and the bar that you want to attach it to.

I would build it as close to the catalog spec as you can manage. I bought an M900 new in 1995 and I don't recall that it had any components that differed from the catalog spec.

Thanks for the link. Not sure if the OP found an arm yet.

I hope you will be able to use it, but if not, you shouldn't have any trouble finding a buyer for it. Interested to hear what you find when you get DA BB out.

I would say 1996-1998 is the range. If it's a CAAD3, I would say 1996-7. I don't think there were any CAAD3 rigid bikes in 1998.

That's a tough one. I don't know of anything that would dissolve epoxy and anything that would will surely take the paint right off. I suppose you might find a good machine shop that could cut it out with a boring bar on a milling machine. It would be tough to set it up securely and...

Bill, you might want to PM the poster about the fork.

I had a CAAD9 BB30 frame that had a threaded sleeve bonded into it. I assume that was the simplest way to install to install a threaded bottom bracket in the BB30 frames.

I have no idea what the team kept on hand for spare bikes but I'm guessing that they may have had a few that were intended for several different riders. The team leaders probably had spare bikes set up just like their race bikes, but the domestiques may not have had dedicated spares.

I'd love to find that bike in my size at that price. I'd still be considering it up to about 420 Euros.