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I have a musician friend who lives in the Nashville area. His mom lives about 6 miles away from me and I know he visits regularly. Maybe he will be willing to negotiate the shipping, but I think he's SW of Nashville.

I see used tractors for sale in Europe that are way cheaper than are available in the USA. Seems odd as I think that it's much cheaper to live in USA (most places) than UK, for example.

Did you measure your hub and rim diameter or are you using dimensions from online sources? I recall building a rear wheel with an Open Pro and Zipp hub with the same length spokes on each side, but I might have cheated on each side a bit. Wheel build was fine, but the Zipp hub was the weak link...

Did you ever have later decals? I still need gold 1989.

I think that I misinterpreted your problem. I thought you meant that the offending screw was on the saddle, but it's apparently the adjusting screw on the post. What brand of post? If the adjustment screw is seized, it's likely due to corrosion. If you can't loosen it up you are probably...

I would think that you could drill a hole in the clamp for the level adjustment screw. There are other seat posts that would probably clear the B17 without modification. Look for something like the FSA afterburner, which has separate narrow clamps front and rear...

Hope you find a Lefty. Great that you're going to send it to Craig. I run a high saddle position which helps me to avoid knee pain. The M800 is a 22" and the seat post is at max height or a little above. It's at least a 350 mm post and might be 400 mm. So I avoid sloping top tubes whenever...

Looks good to me. I think that's a fair price.

I've tried that approach at times but noises bother me. Most annoying thing I've had on a bike was a Tufo tubular tire that had a big high spot - thumped with every revolution. Flatted it the last time I rode, kind of relief to replace it.

I wonder if anyone has ever tried to measure how much power it takes to spin gummed up jockey wheels. I've come across some that you could barely turn with your fingers. I don't think I've got any Cannondale down close to 16 lbs. I'm sure my CAAD6 is the lightest, with Campagnolo 10...

I wish I could say the same. This time of year I only get 1-4 miles at a time, shuffling tractors and wagons between corn fields.

Thanks Mike. Hope that you can continue to check in.

They both look great. I think that I'd really like the M700. It's pretty close to my 1993 M800 but I'd prefer the lower BB and level top tube of the M700. I hope that you can find a reasonably priced Lefty. After 30 years on Cannondales I still have not ridden a dual suspension Cannondale...

I recall doing similar rides 25+ years ago: My 1987 R600 vs. a 531 Bob Jackson. Try as I might with numerous attempts over the same route I could never go as fast on the Jackson as I could on the Cannondale. Unless you have a cracked tube on your Cannondale I would doubt that the frame is the...

I think that a pretty good book could be written about noises that bikes make and the various causes and cures. My guess is that headsets (properly adjusted and in good condition) are unlikely to make any noise. Stems, seatposts, and bottom brackets on the other hand....

It's always good when a part you haven't tried before works out well. Guessing you will get a few weeks this winter with a lot of snow and that will be a good time to change the headset.

That's a beauty. I'd love to have it but have had bad luck with shipping lately. Too bad you're not a bit closer to I-55 as my brother travels to Mississippi regularly for work.

I've owned my M800 for over 20 (25?) years and have never touched the headset. It gets ridden regularly - I rode it a couple of days ago. Pretty sure that those headsets are traditional type with caged ball bearings. Really all you need to do is pull the fork and measure the ball diameter...

It sounds like you have been successful. Thanks for posting those documents. Did you find them on the current Cannondale website? Perhaps Craig (MendonCycleSmith) can explain the shimming process, but I know he is busy and doesn't check in here daily.

The 1993 rigid frames with the Pepperoni fork used 1 1/4" threaded steerer tubes. The cup OD is 37 mm, the crown race ID is 33 mm, and the stem quill OD is 28.6 mm. In 1992 the M700 also had the all-aluminum Pepperoni fork so I'm pretty sure it was 1 1/4". The 1992 M500 had a steel Tange...