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Total guess on my part, but I couldn't find any inch sized bearings anywhere with closer dimensions. Seems odd that Cannondale would have specified an inch sized bearing on top and a metric on bottom but I guess that options are limited in that size range. You should be able to find that...

Closest I have been able to find is a 6809, which is 58 mm x 45 mm x 7 mm. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6809-2RS-two-side-rubber-seals-bearing-6809-rs-ball-bearings-6809-rs/132238430830?hash=item1eca06526e:g:mOYAAOSwstxVGAzG:rk:1:pf:0 Might take some machine work on both the fork and the headset...

Not cheap, but there's one on eBay. Still believe I could make one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cannondale-Vintage-MTB-Headshok-or-Lefty-Castle-Tool-106447-same-as-104110/352553264890?epid=21027411809&hash=item5215cfe6fa:g:U1QAAOSwXI1cIsNM:rk:30:pf:0

OK, 57.15 works out to 2 1/4", so I'd start looking for that OD.

Nothing on eBay that I could find. I'd start with long time Cannondale dealers, or at least shops that sold Cannondale in that era and remained in business. I know of one in my area, now the Trek Store in Davenport, Iowa. Shop is owned by Olympian and former 7-Eleven pro Jeff Bradley. I'll...

Do you not have the old bearing? Should be a part number on it which you can take to bearing supplier. I suppose I can pull the fork off my 1992 and see if there's a number if you can't figure out the bearing from dimensions. I'm guessing the OD is either 58.72 mm (2 5/16") or 60.32 mm (2...

Looking great. It's nice to see you putting so much work into the frame. I don't think I've ever seen one in the wild, only in the shops when they were current.

I would check bearing suppliers. You will need accurate measurements of OD, ID, and thickness. Also check with Craig at Mendon Cyclesmith. He does a lot of Cannondale fork service work. http://mendoncyclesmith.com/ If you can't find one, you might consider converting to the newer style...

From 1991 SE1000 perhaps?

Just be sure that is in fact V1 Octalink. ISIS looks similar but has 10 splines I think.

I would check with a good Cannondale dealer first but doubt that they will be able to provide paint codes. If you have a good hobby shop, check the little jars of model paint for a close match. I often use fingernail polish for touch ups. It's hard to get a perfect match but it can look...

Here's a used XTR M952 175 mm V1 arm that looks like it would work. If seller won't ship to UK I could facilitate. https://www.ebay.com/itm/one-1-used-LEFT-Shimano-FC-M952-XTR-175m-m-octalink-crank-arm/382562545116?hash=item5912812ddc:g:x-cAAOSwEBRbl~90:rk:30:pf:0

That looks like an Octalink V1 spline, but check the BB photos here to be sure, and for a partial list of other V1 cranks. https://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html If it is in fact V1, I believe that XTR is the only Shimano MTB group that uses that spline. Still, used XTR cranks are surely out...

Can you post a pic of the crank arm that shows the damage? Believe your bike had a Cannondale branded crank originally. Single arms turn up on eBay occasionally. I don't know who made those cranks but there are likely other brands that would be functional if the exact one can't be found...

Chain ring can probably be straightened with a big adjustable wrench. What was the nature of the accident? There should be some evidence of any contact hard enough to bend the frame. Exception might be front impact, which could bend the frame and/or fork without scarring up the paint.

Sounds like it's not an Ultra, but it's hard to get a good measurement of either spacers or cogs on a freewheel that's built up. Do you still want to pursue an indexed setup?

I think most guys with an opinion would say that a steel fork will give the best ride. The Cannondale is definitely going to be stiffer than a steel frame, especially compared to the steel that was common in the 80s, such as 531 with a 1" top tube. The stock Tange fork is probably fairly...

I tried the XCD/Cyclone setup a bit last night. I did find a 6 speed freewheel with a 30 cog, but it's an Ultra and has a big jump from the 22 tooth 5th cog to the 30. It didn't shift very well onto the 30 and oddly had trouble shifting to one of the smaller cogs as well. It actually worked...

Best to have the hanger checked with an alignment gauge, like the Park. It shouldn't be a problem to tweak the hanger slightly. Your high limit screw is probably preventing the derailleur from reaching the small cog. Turning it out should allow it to move farther. You may also have to adjust...

I would have guessed that the XC would work pretty well for friction shifting. Do you still have the 6 speed 13-30 New Winner freewheel? I'm not sure if that was standard width or Ultra (narrow) but guessing it was standard. Pretty sure for indexing you could use any long cage SunTour...